AKA Viking DM4 Grip Frame Modification

Train of thought...so far:

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I've been seeing a lot of vikings running off of DM4 or matrix frames recently...i was wondering if this was possible:

mod a DM4 frame to fit on a viking
use the DM4 board, eyes, battery/microswitch (basically leave all the internals from the frame intact)
plug the viking solenoid directly to the DM4 board (probably better to use a Humphrey)
route the eye wires through the body where the viking eyes would go...probably have to strip down the shrink tubing, but the harness is long enough...

in theory it should work right? the viking solenoid uses the same 2-pin plug as the DM4 one does...all that should be required is to modify the dwell on the DM board to work with the viking...

the LED can be removed, because the LED will be on the DM baord, and the on/off would be on the DM frame as the membrane...not to mention the switch and battery are taken care of as well.

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the viking eyes are two seperate harnesses, one left and one right, and connect with two 2-pin connectors on the viking board, not to mention the stock viking eye harnesses are much too short to reach the board where it will be housed in the frame.

the DM4 board uses a single 3-pin connector for the eyes and the eye harness is very long (made to reach from the frame to the eye-ports on the DM's) so as long as the eyes fit in the holes (which they should with no problems) i can use the DM4 eyes...

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hmm, run into a bit of a snare in my thinking...the DM board uses a 2-pin connector for the noid, whereas the viking connector has a 3-pin head... (humphrey noid anyway)

the third pin hole isnt used at all, there's no wire going into it anyway, so maybe i can mod it to use a 2 pin connector, or just ghetto rig the wires to fit properly...

we'll see whats up




UPDATE: within the time i was waiting to make this post i thought of something i had seen happen to another DM4 board i was working on...the female plastic clip on the board had loosened itself and come off so that only the two pins were there, no port to securely connect the wires to...however, when i pressed the wires on that one they held fine just by the compression...

so i took the DM board i was working with to test and used a small Xacto blade to slowly pry off the connector so it was just the 2 prongs...and whaddya know, when i press the DM solenoid wires on they fit and hols perfectly...also, when i turn the board on it will register the solenoid and make it click when i press the microswitch

now all i gotta do is get a DM frame and drill a hole and i'll be good to go

Pics of the board mod:





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We shall see how it all turns out...now i just need a DM4 frame
_________________
-Tim Firpo
-FirePro84
- Viper84@jps.net
- http://www.FirePro84.com

 

so contrary to my previous thoughts, i dont have to strip the eye wire heat shrink tubing off of the DM eyes for it to fit under the Vike eye covers...all i have to do is make sure the wires are flat against the body and they fit fine...

once i hooked up the board to the gun and turned it on the eyes seemed to work fine, they read paint when dropped in the breech, and dont get in the way of the bolt movement at all...

here are some pics of it so far, all i'm missing (as said before) is the frame...and my later addition of a pred board.



_________________
-Tim Firpo
-FirePro84
- Viper84@jps.net
- http://www.FirePro84.com

-57 and counting...most recent: '03 AKA Excal

 

finally finished it tonight, the frame came in the mail on saturday, didnt get a chance to work on it till a little while ago as i was away at a scenario all weekend...

here's the pics









unlike most people who mod DM4 frames to put on a viking, i left the front frame screw hole how it was and used that and instead drilled the hole in the back of the frame...this way i can use the Dye snatch grip as it hangs off the back of the marker like a normal AKA one would.

just dremeled out the hole where it needed to be and then made a little ledge so the screw sits flush against the frame because of the curve on the frame itself, really not that hard...

luckily a 1/8" wrench fits in the hole on the front of the DM frame so i didnt have to drill it out any larger, its a tight fit but it works...

the electronics line up perfectly to the tray hole, so no need for any mods there, i took the pred board out of my DM4 for the time being (the DM is having eye problems anyway...) and installed it on this frame, its PERFECT, i didnt change the dwell settings at all, and its working fine, i think it may actually be a bit high as it sounded like it was shooting hot, i'll have to tweak them a bit later with my chrono. shot 2 hoppers full through it with no chops, fast as the halo would feed...its very nice, modes all work fine and the eyes read perfectly so no problems there...when i first put on the board it was tweaking out and i couldnt figure out why...checkec all the connections, made sure there was no shorts...finally figured out it was the membrane pad that came with the frame...shorting something on the board out...go figure...

replaced the membrane, works perfect...
_________________
-Tim Firpo
-FirePro84
- Viper84@jps.net
- http://www.FirePro84.com