What are the ups/downs of the E1 Vs. E2?
E-1 frames, obviously the first to come out, the original ones had the huge bulky triggers on them, they were heavy and when the magnet was lightened enough, would bounce like crazy. if you get an old e-1 with the old trigger they can be upgraded to the "samurai" triggers now for about $20. as far as performace goes, the old E1's have a LED style display, so the readout on the back is made up of small LED lights...these use up more battery life than the newer E2 frame LCD screen. also to contribute to the drain of batteries, the old E-1 boards had a larger constant draw of power, so if you leave the battery in the gun, after a couple weeks of just sitting there turned off the battery will be dead. the E2s use less battery, and can last up to 4 weeks just sitting,
the E-1 frames can be upgraded with new boards, obviously the ZeroB which has the newer style LCD screen and all the tourney ramping modes...the newest software has PSP ramp, millenium ramp, training mode, and straight semi...these are the same as on the E2 stock frames...also, predator was working on an e-blade board last i heard, but i dont know if it will ever get off the ground. there are other companies that have made boards too, i remember one called the "speedy" board, but i cant remember who made it...
as far as looks go, the E1's come with the old style e-blade grips that are a pain in the ass to get clean once they have dirt in them, and the solenoid covers are open on the bottom to allow for easier access. the frame itself has thicker aluminum walls which make it a bit heavier than the E2 as well. the E2's come with nicer, smaller profile grips which make the frame seem thinner, the grip itself is milled down more to take off as much weight as possible, and the solenoid covers are completely enclosed with a new proprietary barb system. the old barb types that the E1's used had a nasty habbit of warping when tightened down (the 90° fittings only) and constricted air flow, the new system uses all straight fittings.
the eye logic on the E2 frames is nicer as well i think, its displayed on the LCD in a line graph and is easier to understand than the number system on the E1's and you can adjust your sensativity from 10% to 90% where 90% is the most responsive, but will use more battery life. the bounce filters are also a lot better and easier to use on the E2's to make your gun as tourney legal as possible.
really when it comes down to it, you can make an E1 frame do all the things an E2 frame will do by adding the new ZeroB board...but you just dont have all the niceties of the E2 like the enclosed solenoid, better trigger magnet placement and adjustability, nicer trigger, lighter frame, better grips, and sleeker look...
Thanks all knowing guru "o" paintball.
I picked up a CCM J2 off E Bay, with an E1, J&J barrel, CP ASA/Reg. Looks pretty good from the pics, though I haven't got it yet. I've ALWAYS wanted an E Cocker to play with. LOL Always in my case being about 10 days. 8 months ago I didn't know an E Cocker from a Cocker Spaniel. Err, now I have 5? hehehe 42 to go. Guess I'm still fullfilling my newbish desires. Anyway the price seemed right.
I really know nothing about the E Blade firing cycle. I'm guessing that the sear is tripped in the similar manner as a Tippmann E Grip. The timing must be controled by the board? I assume it must have similar settings as the electro/pneumos BIP etc. Is there a dwell or delay setting that controls the recocking? Or does it recock upon trigger release?
its basically the same as a normal autococker, just everything is done with solenoids instead of mechanics...
1) trigger pull
2) grip solenoid clicks dropping the sear and releasing the hammer
3) hammer strikes the valve and fires the ball
4) front solenoid opens chamber #1 to push air through to the front of the ram...cocking the bolt back and allowing a new ball to drop in
5) eye reads ball movement and tells board it is ok to close the breech.
6) front solenoid closes chamber #1 and opens chamber #2 to push air to the back of the ram...this closes the bolt and secures the next ball in place.
7) once gun is finished re-cocking its ready to repeat the process.
yes, the sear trip is basically like any e-spyder or tippmann (i think) e-grip setup, but instead of blowback making the gun re-cock its the pneumatics system up front.
the timing is controlled all by the board, you can get a manual online to explain all the settings, but seeing as how its a used gun (?) it should already be set up correctly to work fine...i can fine tune it to make it faster if you like...i have some settings saved that work really well. but be sure to write down your current settings before you change any of them...just in case...all guns are different.
with an E1 frame, there are two modes it can run in...classic or semi...in classic mode it acts just like a normal cocker...as in it acts like the trigger is still mechanical in operation
1) pull trigger, ball shoots, bolt opens
2) next ball drops in
3) release trigger, bolt closes
Semi mode on the other hand is faster in operation and supposedly less bouncy. its more fluid and i think slightly superior to the classic e-mode
1) pull trigger
2) ball shoots, bolt opens, next ball drops in, bolt closes
3) release trigger
so basically with the semi mode when you pull the trigger the whole shoot and re-cock sequence is done in one swift motion whether you hold the trigger or release it...
your frame shouldnt have any of the special firing modes like PSP ramp or Millenium ramp...
there's no real way to set the 'dwell' per-se on an e-blade cocker as its all controlled by springs...if you get an MQ valve then everything in the lower tube is replaced with an electronically controlled valve system and you can set your dwell and everything else...problemm with MQ's is they're very tempermental and unless you're a cocker god i wouldnt try setting one up without the help of an expert...they're still very new to the industry and not a whole lot of people know how to use them or set the timing properly to operate them...
i had tried to set one up on the Nexus i had for a while and it was a mess, i finally gave up and took it out...Craig later installed it and set it up to work in my evolution e-blade and it works beautifully...i havent messed with any settings since...lol too much of a pain in the ass for me...i under stand springs at least...
any more questions, let me know!
Thanks, All the info has been very helpful. I did find the online manuel. Explains the cycle and settings very clearly. It dosen't have any recommended settings, though there is a factory default setting.
these are what i used on my E1 before i had the MQ put in byt craig...worked flawlessly:
picked up the J2 E blade. It shoots very well, but has a very slight leak down the barrel. I know that it is probaly the valve seat. Shot some oil thru it -no change.
Don't know cockers very well, this is a 2k+ so all cocker valves, post 2k are compatible right? Does that mean that the valve parts are interchangable too? I assume I just need the seat, or should i just replace the complete valve with a PPS LT? Is a special valve tool needed for this?
Also where is a good place to pick up barb gaskets in bulk? They are 6 40 aren't they? I have a quantity of 10 32 gaskets if anyone would like to trade. These are made for QEV's and can be stacked to get them to clock up and seal where you want them.
Its an autococker...it will take any autococker valve...there's no difference in the valve sizes between pre-99 and 2K+. I'm assuming since it's a J2 E-blade that the internals are all CCM parts...you should be able to contact CCM to get a new valve stem/cup seal for the CCM valve in it, but i'd check to make sure thats actually the valve its using before trying to get just a new stem...if it's using a stock cocker valve, you can find the WGP spare parts kits at some stores or on eBay for pretty cheap that include all the needed o-rings a valve stem/cup seal and a valve tool...however i'd say just upgrade it to a PPS LT and dont worry about trying to get a new stem for it if its just a stock WGP valve...you will see a nice efficiency increase with the LT over a stock.
to remove the valve, you first need to remove the valve jam nut and the 5/32 screw on the bottom of the body...thats what the valve tool is for, gettnig out the jam nut. PPS should have some for sale, if not you can find them pretty cheap on sites like ActionVillage or whatever.
for barb gaskets...i'd say try McMaster Carr...PPS should have some, but buying them there can get a bit pricey whereas buying in bulk would save cash in the long run depending on how many you realllllly need.